Friday, 18 May 2007
3rd Floor Hall (Pfahler Hall)
455

Potential skin anti-aging activities of selected plant-derived phenols

Michael Koganov and Artyom Duev. Integrated Botanical Technologies, LLC, Ossining, NY

Skin aging process includes both inflammation and pigmentation pathways, which are important targets for novel topical products. Frequently, elastase inhibitory activity is used to measure anti-inflammatory properties and tyrosinase inhibitory activity is exploited to determine potential skin whitening/lightening effects. Both enzyme models were utilized for comparative determination of inhibitory potency of following plant phenols: apigenin [1], catechin hydrate [2], chlorogenic acid [3], epigallocatechin gallate [4], genistein [5], kojic acid [6], quercetin hydrate [7], rosmarinic acid [8], rutin hydrate [9] and ursolic acid [10]. It was found that [10] (specific elastase inhibitor) and [2] were ineffective against tyrosinase. Similarly, [6] (specific tyrosinase inhibitor) and [3] were inactive against elastase. Only [9] was ineffective in both enzyme models. Other phenols were proven to be active against both enzymes although [4] demonstrated predominately elastase inhibition mode. Presence of glycoside in molecular structure drastically decreased activity of phenol: e.g. [7] vs. [9]. Particular design of functional groups assembly to achieve targeted combination of activities will be discussed.


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